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An Introduction To Thermal Binding
If you are looking for a way to bind your documents, reports, presentations and proposals but want them to look like a perfect bound book then you might be interested in Thermal Binding. Thermal binding allows you to create high quality, professional presentations and proposals without any punching or inserting. In fact depending on the type of thermal cover you select your documents can look just like a commercially produced soft cover or hard cover book. Thermal binding is fast, easy to use and extremely versatile. If you are considering binding your documents and reports using thermal binding here are few things you might like to know ...
1. Thermal binding is one of the fastest and easiest binding systems available on the market. In fact, all you need to do in order to bind your documents using Thermal Binding is place your pages inside the premade cover, put the cover in the machine and then let it cool when the machine is finished. It is that simple.
2. In order to ensure that your bound documents have the look and feel that you want them to have you need to carefully consider the type of thermal binding cover that you are going to use. The most common type of thermal binding cover has a linen weave paper back and spine with a clear front. This type of thermal binding cover is often called a utility cover and is a great low cost option for thermal binding. However, some companies who are looking for a more elegant high end look for their presentations and proposals tend to use thermal covers with windows, thermal covers that are imprinted with company artwork and thermal covers made from special paper stocks (or a combination of all of these). Some companies will even pay for fully printed four color offset printed thermal covers for a fully customized look and feel.
3. It is important to remember that because thermal binding requires a premade cover with thermal glue already applied in the spine you need to have the right size cover to match the thickness of your report. This is especially important if you are considering a customized cover with printing or embossing since customized orders can sometimes take a couple of weeks to ship. Thermal covers are available in a number of different sizes. In fact Thermal binding covers com in sizes as small as 1/16" (with a V spine) and as large as 2" thick.
4. Thermal binding hard covers and photo books are also available for higher end presentations and proposals. If you are considering using thermal hard covers you should consider a machine with an adjustable temperature setting so that you can increase the temperature for binding hard covers. You will also need a hard cover crimper to help finish off your thermal hard covers. If you don't have a thermal binding machine with an adjustable temperature setting you may have to run your thermal hard covers through the machine two or three times to ensure that the glue is fully activated.
5. In order to get the highest quality bind using your thermal binding machine it is important to make sure that your pages are carefully squared up in your cover and that they come in full contact with the glue in the bottom of the cover. It is also helpful to tap the spine of your documents on a counter or table while they are still hot to ensure that the pages are fully seated into the hot thermal binding glue.
6. For short run publications, specialty reports and other highly customized applications it is possible to make your own thermal binding covers. This process involves printing your one piece cover, scoring the cover for the correct size spine, adding a thermal binding glue strip and using your thermal binding machine to complete the bind. If you have more questions about this process don't hesitate to ask as it can be somewhat tricky.
Hopefully these six points will help you to better understand thermal binding. Just remember, if you have any questions, it never hurts to ask.
About the Author
Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for
www.MyBinding.com
. He has written hundreds of articles on topics related to
Binding Machines
,
Binding Supplies
, Binding Covers, Laminators, Laminating Supplies, and more.
I need help with an Egg Drop project for school?
I am so frustrated. we have to make a vehicle to hold an egg, we will then drop the vehicle to make sure the egg doesn't crack.
The container has to be entirely made by you, you can't use a premade container like a box or ANYTHING!! it can't be bigger than 40 cm by 40 cm by 40 cm.
It can't have a parachute. I can only use straws, rubber bands, string, glue, tape, wood, staples, paper clips, and no more than one 8 1/2 by 11 " piece of paper. This sucks, I have no idea what to do. Can anyone help me??
it cant be over 40 grams
I have an idea. Maybe you can construct it from my word description. I would construct a framework from the straws, a cube perhaps. A sphere would be best, but I do not see a way of making such a structure from what you have. I would use several straws taped together, not a single straw. The legs each have to be as sturdy as possible. It would be best if the cube did not crumple when it hits the ground. Then using rubber bands, make a "web net" which completely encloses the egg, with a firm tension, but NOT tight, just a slight stretch. If you pull on the web, it should stretch ONLY as far as the cube side. In essence, the rubber bands will stop the egg by running out of stretch JUST as the shell approaches the side, but stops just short of making contact. Hitting the side means the egg shell breaks because of the collision. It will take some adjusting. The stretch left in the bands is going to act like a spring. Now use string to connect the web to the corners so the egg is centered within the cube. Use as many attachment points as you can, the more points the web is attached to the frame the more even the distribution of the forces. Now orient the egg so the pointy end is aligned with one side, which will become the "bottom". Build a tail assembly just like you see on bombs in the movies. Use straws to make a framework and use the paper to "fill in" the fins. The idea is you fasten the tail assembly to the side opposite the bottom so when the cage falls, it will fall and the tail will guide it so it will hit bottom side first, where the pointy side of the egg is. I am remembering that the way the egg is constructed, the pointy end will support more weight than the round end. Think the arch in St. Louis, which is a parabola. A parabolic arch will support more weight than a hemispherical arch. In this case the pointy end will need to support the force applied by the bands as the egg decelerates. It has something to do with the way the cells form which make the shell. I just noticed you have wood in the list. What shape? If something like a Popsicle stick, then these would be better for the cage than straws. I hope this at least gives you something to think about and maybe come up with a better support system. The key is, figure a way to land pointy end down. Use the paper as an airfoil to insure the falling structure will always land with the pointy end down. Figure a way to use the stretch of the bands to work like a spring to decelerate the egg smoothly. As the band stretches, it applies the brakes smoothly. It is the sudden stop that will break the egg. Support the egg by as many points as possible. You want to distribute the forces over as much of the surface area of the egg as possible. Think a bed of nails here. The person laying down is supported by many small points, thus spreading the forces over as much area as possible and thus, never gets hurt. It is the single nail which does the damage, not the thousands. I just though of something else, a crumple zone. Have you seen the barrels on the freeway near to offramps and bridge supports? These are a triangular arrangement of plastic barrels full of water. If a car hits this, it crumples 1, then 2, then 3, then 4 barrels (or more) before hitting the hard structure which lies beyond. The barrels of water absorb a great deal of energy in place of the body of the car if a car hist the barrels. The key is to have a tight lid, but not too tight. In you case, the straws, full of water and taped closed and then stacked like a pyramid on the bottom to give it a point. The straws have to be parallel to the bottom face so they hit the ground flat so the straw is pinched, popping off the tape on the ends. For every straw that flattens, some energy will be absorbed and the cage decelerated a bit. The hard part here is going to be sealing the water in the straws, but not so well it does not pop off the tape when the straw collapses. It does no good if the water does not come out. The water staying contained would be like using a pencil instead of the water filled straw. OK, so this has been a long essay instead of a simple recipe. My idea here is to get you to think by me making a few suggestions on ways to decelerate in a controlled manner. Is it against the rules to apply a tape coating to the egg shell? Use thin strips and make a crosshatch pattern to completely cover the external surface. Instead of using the rubber bands directly to make the web, use the tape looped through the bands.Make a "cup shape" which matches the curvature of the egg In this manner, the bands work on the tape and the tape spreads the force over a wide area attached to the egg. Again, cover the egg entirely and use many points for support. OK, so I hope this gives you a starting point. I like the stiff cage, many rubber band supports to link the 8 corners to the rubber band and tape web, with a crumple zone pyramid, egg placed pointy end down, tail fins to insure the bottom hits first.
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